Visit Kratie: My recommended two-day trip to Kratie!

Kratie in Cambodia, a stunning province situated on the north-eastern side of the country, has always been on the to-do list. Luckily in early May, just before the rainy season, I got the chance to explore, so here’s my recommended to-do list when visiting Kratie province, Cambodia

Day One of my recommended Kratie Province trip!

So I cheated a little bit here! I got the night bus from Phnom Penh – which is technically the day before day one – just. However, this is a great way to not lose time during the days you are there. I paid $12 for the Vireak Buntham hotel bus from Phnom Penh (the pickup station is just north of Wat Phnom – available on Google) and left at 9:15 pm arriving at 3 am in Kratie. 

Given the time of arrival, I booked directly with the Soyra Guesthouse to make sure they’d be open. The number was on Google and the receptionist spoke great English. I arrived in a SILENT Kratie at 3 am, leaving the bus on my own as it continued on to Strung Treng further northeastern towards the Laos border afterward. After a 3-minute walk, I got to the guesthouse, right on the banks of the Mekong, and got my head down until 7 am just in time to watch a beautiful sunrise at their rooftop cafe.

I can’t recommend this place enough! Great staff, a great location, and good budget food & drink. They also had lots of information about local tourist excursions, books, board games, and a Kratie-influenced cocktail menu that it would have been rude not to try (Go for the Kratie Style Gin Fizz!).

After sunrise, we headed over to the ferry to take us to the adjacent Koh Trong Island, which conveniently runs back and forth every 10 minutes or so from 6 am to 6 pm (Though don’t look for a timetable, it seems to be as and when!).

On arrival, we had a short swim in the mighty Mekong River to cool down. With it being May it was already 32oc. Anyone who knows me knows I hate wearing a hat but I cannot recommend one enough for a day in the Katie, Cambodian sun. I’m also completely sure there are more fashionable hat choices than my quasi-fisherman get-up. 

Top Tip: Wear a hat for the sun!

Next, we came to the eco-tourism center, a short walk up the beach from the ferry drop-off point in the dry season, or during the rainy season probably immediately as you get off, as the Mekong starts to bloat to 45% more from May onwards! There is a map full of activities, from Mango and Pamelo farms, homestays, and a little bit of an underwhelming temple but all in all a beautiful island. 

You can travel around by motorbike for only $2 (moto in Khmer), but I opted to do it in style on a horse-drawn cart for $10 – which took you in a 7km ring around the islands. The receptionist didn’t understand English, but the sign helped to point at what you wanted. 

Mid-horse-drawn journey, we stopped at the northern resort on the island and as it was in season, enjoyed fresh mango which was falling from the trees and ready to eat – amazing. Finally, we visited the temple at the other end of the island where we watched the two split parts of the Mekong join together and caught the final ferry home for sunset at 6 pm.

We then tried a few local food spots and local beers. The local food was nice, especially the beef biltong – GET KHMER NAME – We also tried a few more obscure beers, including one called ‘Trinking’ which was labeled ‘Belgian 1663 – which definitely needs to be taken with a pinch of salt.

Day 2 of my recommended Kratie Province trip:

We woke early for 7:30 departure north and although our hostel provided a dolphin experience tour, we opted to ask a local tuk-tuk driver and with 4 people I met up with in the hostel, we got the price from $40 total to $30. The ride was a bit bumpy, but the views of the frankly huge Mekong, stretching what seemed 10km across were amazing, and also every Khmer child waving and saying hello is always super heart-warming. 

On arrival, it’s $8 per person for a group of 4, which increases with fewer people or decreases with more. There were no departure times, and as soon as we paid it’s first come first serve on the boats for a 30-minute ride out onto the river to see the critically endangered Irrawaddy dolphin, the last place they are alive in Cambodia and second in the world. 

We then headed another 20km up north for the 100 Pillar Temple, got some food overlooking the Mekong again and after another dip, we headed back. In the evening, we went out and did some fishing riverside in the Mekong, and spoke to some Khmer families in broken Khmer on our behalves and broke English on theirs, who all head to just south of the ferry for an evening swim, least in May at the end of the dry season for the 40+ degree heat! The cool of the river is certainly satisfying even if you don’t get in it!

Finally, transport back to Phnom Penh was by Virak Buntham’s ‘luxury’ mini-bus ($15.5 each), who have a collection point in central Kratie. Complete with charging points and executive-style seating, while not the most spacious, these buses are the next best thing to a private taxi. We arrived in around 4 hours.

Kratie has charm and natural allure. So pack your hat, and your sense of adventure, and get ready to explore this Cambodian gem! Find out more general information in our full guide here:

Kratie Province Gallery

Quick facts and tips:

Traveled By:
In Cambodia: Budget day-time minibus services from major cities are around $14-18. 
Night buses (called hotel buses) are cheaper at around $12. Private Taxis range from $70-100 one-way.
Location type:
Rural, eco
Tourism attractions:
Eco, exploration, nature, art & culture 


Agenda:
Day One:
3 am: Arrival and check-in
6 am: Sunrise spectacle at Soyra Guesthouse
Morning: Ferry to Koh Trong Island
Afternoon: Island exploration via horse-drawn cart
Evening: Local food and obscure beer escapades

Day Two:
7:30 am: Tuk-tuk to meet the dolphins
Morning: Dolphin watching on the Mekong
Afternoon: Visit to the 100 Pillar Temple
Evening: Riverside fishing and mingling with locals!
Tom Starkey
Author: Tom Starkey

Tom Starkey is an International Development graduate from Sussex University with 12-years of experience across 4 continents, Tom's goal is that he wants to showcase his love for Cambodia, where he lives, works and now happily calls home.