Urban alley life: It’s the fertile soil where culture grows

Phnom Penh’s urban planning of the past has brought us to the future of “now” as goes random spacing for the city. A hodgepodge of current zoning for development has been established, one that brings greater cohesion in the placement of residential, commercial, and industrial properties. Economic zones, malls, and urban sprawl have all taken their place in the topography of Phnom Penh and beyond. It is the spaces in between where our gaze is now drawn, however.  

Urban Cambodia has embraced a Fordist economic system as its way forward. Britannica describes “Fordism” as a term widely used to describe the system of mass production that was pioneered in the early 20th century by the Ford Motor Company as the driver for economic growth and an associated political and social order for advanced capitalism. At its core, “Fordism” describes the “seeding” of a societal desire for vehicle ownership as an extension of identity.

Cambodia can be seen as a society where the need/desire for vehicular ownership is driven by the move to urban and suburban living from the rural and as such, a factor in the clear demographic divides that characterize the population.  

Daily travel in urban/suburban Cambodia has is indeed largely reminiscent of going to work in major international cities, where their flow of commuter traffic flows into the city for both work and pleasure.

This pattern largely “works” here as a result of Phnom Penh’s mid-century modern style city-planning strategy, which came courtesy of the French. The planning of the 1950s solidified a gridline pattern for the inner core of the old town, a standard Chicago School approach to organizing social fabric. Left behind though were Phnom Penh’s unique architecture and ubiquitous pathways.  Both add to the city’s rich cultural history and diversity. 

Skip forward 70 years and reminiscent qualities of aesthetic and shade-oriented pathways can still be found. Like many cities of the world, Phnom Penh was first established with a human-centered focus on its various markets. Access was subsequently made for vehicular and foot traffic.

Beyond the grid: It’s where the “light” gets in

The interstitial spaces around these markets and landmarks are often walkways for people and inadvertent pedestrian zones. Characteristics of pedestrian zones are commercial areas that provide a scale of leisure and comfort in their accessibility.  The list of alleys in question that can be identified continues to be in a state of flux as speakeasy bars, restaurants, and shops annually open and close as trends and rent prices adjust to profit-driven landlords.  

Certain streets around Orussey Market fall under the category of pedestrian zones as the width between buildings is only fit for motorcycles and pop-up food stands. The dilapidation of these networks and nodes includes an applique of local impoverished grit, which keeps out the less adventurous. The bustling streets of mention are, notwithstanding, exuberant examples of Cambodian life and adaptation in the face of adversity. 

Several alleys do not have an address and only can only be found by word of mouth. The quest for an authentic experience, free of “design” by corporate interests and bereft of branding is an urbanite’s dream. And these areas remain hidden for a reason. The cookie-cutter planning of most major cities can kill creativity and organic space in localities. Phnom Penh still clings to its originality to a degree by happenstance.  

Looking for an alleyway with character, connectivity and a random bar/eatery is the goal. An establishment I speak of is not a bog-standard Khmer breakfast place but something more special and more unique.

I refer to the bohemian bubbles of Khmers and foreigners with cosmopolitan cuisine, art, and emerging fashion from up and comers. Luxury is not of interest, nor are upscale exclusionary stores. Gentrification does pose a threat to them but the many dead ends on small side streets create the space for pedestrian dominance and quaint shops.  Graffiti is always a good marker that you have found a concrete rivulet worth inspecting.  Safety first, so if you are prone to being victimized, stay home. Bassac Lane, the side streets surrounding the Russian Market, or a meander by the Royal Palace provide good, safer glimpses at the phenomena I describe.  

Seemingly, all three zones are barang hotbeds of activity. The correlation between this quality in urban space and the draw of foreigners and tourists to them demonstrates how such neighborhood characteristics are noticed, appreciated, and could provide an organic renaissance.    

As a geographer, I could map out where to visit the contiguous fragments of alleys that hint of an urban village, but I have no interest in diminishing the value of secret spaces by making them known. The mystery is part of the journey through the nestled crevasses of Phnom Penh’s forgotten alleyways and your efforts in seeking them out will be well rewarded. 

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