The Great Anlong Veng Guide
Anlong Veng was the last holdout of the Khmer Rouge, as well as the last home of the notorious despot Pol Pot. Many guide books will state the place is not with visiting. But if you have more than a passing interest in recent Cambodian history? Then visiting there is a must.
History of Anlong Veng
While the Khmer Rouge were technically toppled in 1979, they continued on in various forms for another almost 20 years before finally laying down their arms.
Anlong Veng existed as a bastion of the Khmer Rouge throughout their war against the People’s Republic of Kampuchea and would continue to be so after the group refused to take part in the elections of the 1993.
The group then formed a rump state in the areas it controlled. That was known as the Provisional Government of National Union and National Salvation of Cambodia (PGNUNSC).
From 1994-96, the capital of the rump state was the gem-producing city of Pailin until Ieng Sary defected to government forces and essentially gifted the area in the process. The remaining members fled to Anlong Veng, making it the last capital of the final incarnation of a Khmer Rouge state.
To read about the last Khmer Rouge state click here.
Over the last two years of its existence, there were numerous infights and defections. These events included the execution of Son Sen and his family and the arrest and later death of Pol Pot. The last leader of the Khmer rouge “state” was Ta Mok.
The death knell of the regime finally rang in 1998 after the successful “Win-Win” policy of Prime-Minister Hun Sen. Ta Mok would remain free and on the run though until being captured in 1999.
In the following years the city and area would fall into relative decline while being ruled by former Khmer Rouge leaders. The area has though recently received some investment and there is now a border crossing with Thailand as well as an interesting new hotel and casino. Ironically, it was built adjacent to where Pol Pot died. The main reason to come here though remains Dark Tourism related to the Khmer Rouge.
To read about the case for Dark Tourism click here.
How to get to Anlong Veng?
There are no buses from Phnom Penh to Anlong Veng, although you can technically take a shared taxi. That journey will clock in at eight hours or so.
Anlong Veng is though just three hours from Siem Reap. There are buses available from there and you can also hire a car to drive you around. Deals can be had for anywhere from $50-$70 or so a day. If you’re feeling adventurous, you can rent a motorbike in Siem Reap and ride it to Anlong Veng. Motorbikes can also be rented in Anlong Veng.
To read our guide to Koh Trong click here.
What is there to see and do in Anlong Veng?
Coming here is squarely about learning about Pol Pot and his cohorts during the dying days of their regime although there is lots of natural beauty to see as well. And during normal times you can also pop across the border to Thailand.
Ta Mok’s townhouse is another “attraction”. While the former leaders of the Khmer Rouge are not exactly held in high esteem in the Kingdom, Anlong Veng was very much their heartland and Ta Mok is still revered here, something indicated by how well his former home has been looked after. There is a museum, a former propaganda truck, a book about Democratic Kampuchea, as well as views of the artificial lake that he created to take in.
Another typcial stop for those who venture to Anlong Veng is the grave of the Son Sen family. Son Sen was executed along with 13 of his family, including children, with the bodies being driven over by trucks. An extremely macabre setting merely marked by a very eerie sign.
The memorial to Ta Mok is another point of interest. It’s opulent to almost decadent levels and is located next to the grave of Son Sen, which pretty much sums up how differently the two are remembered.
Towards the Jungle and the Thai Border
While the town offers a glimpse into the lives of the last vestiges of the Khmer Rouge, it is out by the border and near the jungle where you find the more surreal places related to their demise.
The cremation site of Pol Pot lies literally a stones throw from the only hotel in the area as well as the Thai border. Some have described it as underwhelming, but it is how underwhelming it is that makes it so unique and chilling. There are actually two memorials, one donated by a Lotto winner who said they were given the winning number by Pol pot in a dream.
Ta Mok’s mountain house is underwhelming but is located next to the Peace Observatory and thus warrants a few photos.
The Anlong Veng Peace Observatory is also worthy of look, offering as it does solitude, hammocks, great views and beers for the weary traveller.
The house/bunker of Pol Pot takes a somewhat harrowing drive through the jungle to get to on motorbikes over tough terrain. If you are not experienced on a bike then you will need a driver. On arrival you are face to face with the last bunker that Pol Pot lived in. It is guarded by former Khmer Rouge cadres who are now part of the military. It’s a somber highlight to those visiting here.
Where to sleep in Anlong Veng?
In the town itself there are numerous smalll hotels and hostels set up when tourism was still active, but by the border you have either the casino, or the Heng Hotel as options. They are both located on the same street as the death place of Pol Pot. The hotel reminded us a lot of North Korean hotels, particularly the Sosan Hotel in Pyongyang. It is a three-star affair with rooms costing around the $25. Location-wise, it is perfect.
Where to eat in Anlong Veng?
The town offers standard Khmer fare. It may be the only place in Cambodia I did not see a Seoul franchise.
Up by the border there is one place, the Dangrek Mountain Restaurant. It offered s great fish, as well as post-biking beers for our group.
Next to it is a duty free shop where I was first introduced to Khmer Whisky, another abomination that deserves its own article.
Getting out of Anlong Veng?
When the world gets back to normal Anlong Veng would make a perfect transit point for Thailand, but alas that is not possible yet. Siem Reap is three hours away or if you want to check out Pailin, the other stronghold of the Khmer Rouge, its is about a five hour drive or so. It also has casinos and a border crossing with Thailand.
 | Anlonng Veng, Cambodia |
 | https://www.cambodialifestyle.com/ |
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Author: Gareth Johnson
Gareth Johnson is the founder of Young Pioneer Tours and has visited over 180+ countries. His passion is opening obscure destinations to tourism and sharing his experience of street food.
