A Visit to Cambodia’s Original Beach Resort: The Independence Hotel Sihanoukville

I was recently invited to stay at the Independence Hotel Sihanoukville. I’m almost always up for a look-see and since I was in Sihanoukvile already for a conference? I said why not. And I am glad I did because I soon became aware there was indeed a very strong “here’s why” in place as to why I should check the place out. The Independence Hotel Sihanoukville is in fact, the oldest resort in Cambodia. Which got me immediately curious about the history of the place and what it’s like to stay there in the here and now.

History of the Independence Hotel Sihanoukville

Cambodia has seen a lot of changes in recent years when it comes to tourism. That can lead you to think that almost everything must be new, so I was surprised to find on my journey to the property that the hotel is extremely old, quite famous and… apparently haunted. 

It’s located on prime beach real estate and is now run by the Dara group, a brand banner synonymous with luxury. However, on arrival the buildings underwhelmed me to an extent. At first glance, the place had a very North Korean vibe to it, a feeling you only get if you’ve actually been to the DPRK. The Independence’s beach setting specifically reminded me of the Majon Bathing Resort in the eastern Korean city of Hamhung.

To read about Majon Resort click here. 

The Independence Hotel and Resort was built in 1963 during the swinging 60’s, Cambodia’s so-called “Golden Era”. King Norodom Sihanouk, along with renowned French architects Leroy and Mondet, designed and built it as a symbol of Cambodia’s freedom from French colonial rule and the bright future the Kingdom had in front of it. 

The first such resort in the country, Sihanouk was so passionate about the project that he invited luminaries from the world to stay there. That list included Jacqueline Kennedy, the widow of U.S. President J.F. Kennedy, in 1967.

Check out the following extremely rare footage of Sihanouk at the hotel

The hotel would struggle following the overthrow of Sihanouk by Lon Nol and its strategic location eventually made it the perfect base for the Democratic Kampuchean regime under the rule of the Khmer Rouge and Pol Pot. 

Following their overthrow, the tale of the hotel goes a little dark. We do know it was used briefly in 1992 to house the UNTAC forces that were slowly rebuilding the country, before it was once again left vacant and vulnerable to the elements.

The Resurgence of the Independence Hotel Sihanoukville

In 2007, at the behest of King Norodom Sihanouk, renovations began to restore the Independence Hotel to its original glory. Modern conveniences such as a new elevator and air-conditioning were added but the decor, structure, and style were kept as close to the original design as possible. And that’s what makes it so unique today. 

After being purchased by the Dara group, it was renamed the Dara Independence Beach Resort and Spa. The property now has three restaurants, a spa, a nature path running through the property, an elevator down to the beach, conference rooms, a reception building, and two swimming pools. One of those is literally on the beach. 

What it’s like to stay at the Dara Independence Beach Resort and Spa

Short answer? It’s lovely. But a stay here can also be described as a bit paradoxical. The decor has a decidedly historical edge to it, as do its restaurants and conference rooms. “Retro” would be a nice way of saying that. “Dated” would be another. Bumped up though against its very modern luxuries and amenities, such as the aforementioned swimming pool? The whole scene is pleasantly surreal as you visually “trip” decades at a time while moving about the hotel.  

The beach setting is beautiful, if on the remote side, and well removed from the sin-city element of the rest of Sihanoukville. This gives it a feel that you could indeed be anywhere in the world. Which is not a bad thing in a beach experience. 

As for the ghosts? I did not personally see any, but having some knowledge of both the darker side and deeper aspects of the hotel’s history? I did truly wonder what the walls might say if they could talk.

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