Katmandu Restaurant – When time stops in Kep

In Phil Javele first article for Khmer Nights he reviews Katmandu Restaurant on Kep pier.

I still remember the first time I visited Kep, back in 2004: a pastime pearl, peaceful haven, where time seems to have stopped. A few bamboo and straw resorts in the middle of flamboyant trees welcomed colourful groups of bohemian lifestyle lovers. Away from Crab Market’s bustle, isolated charming and genuine places humbly provided a mix of tasty Khmer and Western food. Yes, there were quite a lot of French dishes… but Kep has been quite tinted with French colonialism, hasn’t it?

The formidable growth of Cambodia hasn’t spared Kep. Chinese funded buildings with flashing colours emerged amongst the ruins of colossal mansions, razing flamboyant trees and eclipsing our modest favorite shacks.

There is no Pizza Hut in Kep!

Feeling depressed? Smile! There’s no Pizza Hut in Kep! Not yet. And there is… Kathmandu.

To read our take on Pizza Hut Phnom Penh click here

It’s just a few meters from the main road, once you’ve passed Kep’s masterpiece Rock Hotel, just before the pier to Rabbit Island. Follow the sign, take that small path towards the late Brise de Kep, forget the Chinese hotel around the corner, and here you are.

Katmandu Restaurant Kep

The old block housing Kathmandu has the timeless charm of simplicity. Bushes around resonate to the incessant quivering of birds and frogs. Owned by Usha, an ebullient Nepalese woman, and her French (again) husband Vincent, Kathmandu is both a guesthouse and a restaurant, authentic and peaceful. Family feel. The couple’s two kids are adorable, so are the cats. Three wooden tables on the terrace. Yellow lights and a green LED ribbon at night. A few zen knick-knacks and a hammock. Next door, Louise hosts yoga and meditation retreats, healing workshops… See, you’re not depressed anymore.

I forgot to mention the rotisserie at the entrance. Such a tempting smell!

Katmandu Restaurant – The Menu

Vincent brings me the menu featuring Indian, Khmer and Western recipes. Momos and thali. Butter chicken masala. A choice of amok. Schnitzel and spaghetti. Noodle soups. To be paired with ginger pineapple shake, lassi or masala tea. The breakfast offer is dope: eggs in multiple ways, from boiled to scrambled, muesli, aloo roti and a luscious homemade banana cake which you can also find at Kep’s notorious Pet Sarath supermarket.

What was it like to travel around Maoist Nepal? Click here to find out

I order a vegetable thali and, greedy me, a quarter of roast chicken (yeah, the rotisserie). The latter is nicely seared. The meat melts in the mouth, the well seasoned and not greasy skin is crunchy as can be. The potatoes lack a bit of garlic and salt. I’m full already, the plateful is generous. And… here comes the thali: a savoury mix of tofu and eggplant in curry sauce, dahl, tomato chutney and brown rice.

Double hit. This is succulent homemade food.

Weekends in Kep

Kathmandu is busy on this Friday night. There’s not much talking as everyone enjoys the Cuisine, but once we’ve satisfied our appetite, the atmosphere and our hosts bring people together: a charming retired Italian gentleman with his Khmer girlfriend, a young Cambodian businesswoman on vacation, a French (again and again) trendy architect, and Louise, the neighbour.

Clearly, the clientele is eclectic. Despite the venue’s modest look, it does attract a wider range of customers than the backpackers you could expect. Both Cambodians and expatriates like its spirit and Usha’s food, not judging the book by its cover.

Usha and Vincent met in Kep ten years ago. While cheerful and talkative with their guests, they remain discreet in their daily life, and above all, very hard workers: Kathmandu operates seven days a week. On top, Usha runs Lily’s Kitchen, her takeout brand: daily suggestions that she delivers. She has a secret weapon: her Nepalese dumplings, one of Kep’s best-sellers. Stuffed with chicken, pork, cheddar or ham, people seem to unanimously crave them.

The best Nepalese and Indian food in Kep?

Owning Kathmandu hardly spares any leisure time. Vincent savours his rare moments of swimming in the sea. Kep’s beaches are not the best ones in the country, and the sea’s brown colour makes the best swimmer reluctant. Vincent has found a precious small rocky spot, between the crab statue and the huts, where the sea appears transparent green. That’s what Kep is all about: to discover and treasure.

Now that I discovered Kathmandu, I will treasure it, taste its whole menu, enjoy its inspiring mood. Informal. Timeless.

Yes, time stopped at Kathmandu, Kep. For the best.

	Kep, Cambodia
	https://www.cambodialifestyle.com/kep-province-guide/
	+855 9 678 01791

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